Who would have thought that a last minute trip to Paris in the summer would lead to some of the most memorable experiences of my life, so rich, you could almost taste them, and we did! What started out as a trip to experience Paris for the first time with my niece turned out to be an irreplaceable girls’ trip with not just my niece, but my sister as well! Word to the wise, if ever you’d like to be treated as royalty in Paris with every red carpet laid out before you, travel with women!
↑ Rue de Martyrs
AirBnb has certainly been an asset to the way we travel nowadays. Through their service, I found a quintessential Paris flat on Rue de Martyrs, which is in the 9th arrondissements (district), offering a locale close enough to the heart of Paris, while also giving the vibe of being a local underground neighborhood, with shops of all kinds, including cheese shops, bakeries, florists, meat shops, cafes, and wine shops. The grocery stores also offered all of these selections, with the most extensive display of decadent yogurts I’d ever seen.
↓ We promptly visited a few of these shops before heading up to what was to be our Parisian boudoir for the week, and there, we laid out our first meal.
↑ Our Flat
Our AirBnb was the most perfect combination of classic white elegance, with a tasteful adornment of french refinement. When searching for the ideal Paris escape on AirBnb, I wanted to find something with just the right amount of, je ne sais quoi…perfection. I found it in this two bedroom flat with stunning views of the roofs of Paris, crisp, white sofas and bedding, set off with gilded furniture and light fixtures. The modern kitchen was the perfect juxtaposition of the classically Parisian decor. When I travel to Paris again, I will actually be seeking out the same spot because of its overall vibe and it’s perfect location in relation to all Paris has to offer. We felt close enough to the center of Paris, while also feeling like locals in an underground neighborhood.
↑ La Table Des Anges
After a long day of travel from the states, it didn’t take more than a stroll down the street before we stumbled upon the most perfect restaurant for our first dinner in Paris, La Table Des Anges. Just a few hundred feet from our apartment, we were welcomed in by the soft lighting, the rustic vibe, and the friendly staff, who were happy to accommodate in helping us become acquainted with our new neighborhood. We asked for their suggestion of specials, and were delighted with each bite, from the terrine de canard, a country pate with French bread, to the chilled tomato soup accompanied by Iberico ham and a drizzling of basil oil. The local white wine capped off our meal, and sent us to bed with satiated tummies, and a desire to wake up early (or not) in anticipation of the next day’s events.
↑ Eiffel Tower
If you’re one to enjoy a nice healthy walk, then you should! It’s good for you, and all the better to experience Paris first hand. Which is why we decided to head to the Eiffel Tower ‘a pied from our apartment in the 9th district. It was about a 30-minute walk, but would you like to know what made the walk even more wonderful than could be imagined? Wine! In Paris, a blind eye is turned when it comes to enjoying one of life’s great pleasures, publicly. We picked up a bottle of Bordeaux and proceeded to enjoy every sip of it on our way.
There are many ways to see the Eiffel Tower, and as I remember (albeit memory loss due to wine consumption on walk over), it was quite organized, and the lines were reasonable. You can choose which level you’d like to venture to, and of course, we went straight for the penthouse. I will say, as lovely as the view is from the top, what I personally enjoyed was experiencing the architecture of the structure with each step along the way as we went up up up!
Wishes to all, that one day you will have the moment when you first look out over the shimmering lights of Paris. Unimaginable, incomparable, a sprinkling of magical dust throughout the atmosphere. A moment that you will feel in your heart forever and ever.
↑ Family Meet Up
Just as if Paris couldn’t get any better with my sister and my niece, we found out that one of my older brothers was in Paris with his family too…what luck!
↑ Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
A magical city made more magical! You could imagine how exciting it would be to make your way through the crowds at Notre Dame, only to link up with your loving family unexpectedly. That moment when you catch eyes, and then big hugs all around! We all went inside and took in the inexplicable, heavenly presence that is/was/will be again… Notre Dame. How privileged were we that our brother knows the ins and outs of all things architectural, and had studied the history of Notre Dame. Our very own expert! If I just close my eyes, I can smell the scents of the aged wood and incense as we speak. No need to describe more…we can’t wait for it to be rebuilt so you can experience for yourself.
↑ Fête des Tuileries
Paris can dazzle the eye of everyone, from toddlers to seasoned travelers. Because there were so many of us traveling together, of course we had a family member in each age group. To delight the senses of our youngest, we brought them to the Jardin des Tuileries, a carnival with a great big ferris wheel and all, just steps away from the Louvre. Situated near bounties of gardens and flowers, you can relax on adirondack chairs while your little ones enjoy the plethora of amusements offered here.
After they had their fill of fun on the Place du Carrousel, we rounded up the family and enjoyed a casual lunch of warm ham and gruyere sandwiches, and cold beer at the cafe right next to the carnival. What a lovely way to unwind after we’ve unwinded.
↑Le Relais de L’Entrecôte
One meal to remember was enjoyed on a night of the family meet up. My brother, who has frequented Paris several times, suggested that we go for a Parisian staple, Le Relais de L’Entrecôte. Looking for a wide selection of choices? Do not look here! Looking for a delicious, dependable steak frites? You’ve come to the right place, because that is all they serve. Steak frites all around, and house wine too! The place was packed, with a line to get in, as they serve their classic meal over and over without disappointment. The vibe is right, the lighting is right, the belly is full, and the French men do not lack in visual appeal.
↑ Nighttime Exploring
Even after all the Parisians and tourists have gone to sleep, the essence of Paris is still awake in every corner. If you tend to be a creature of the night, step out onto the streets in the twilight hours, and take in the magnitude of Paris with no distractions other than the rich architecture, aromatic smells of the day to come, and the twinkle of the lights all around you.
At around midnight, my niece, my brother, and I decided to hop on Velib bikes to truly take in the sights of Paris in one fell swoop. Note to fellow travelers- if you want to see all of Paris with almost zero distractions from people or traffic, be bold, and do as we did! We cruised the sights under the lights into the wee hours of the night/morning. This method of travel allowed us to see The Louvre, The Eiffel Tower, L’Arc de Triomphe, The Paris Opera House, and everything in between for a fraction of what any other tour would cost. Plus you can’t possibly put a price on the fun factor, or the memories. If you have adventurous blood running through your veins, I highly recommend this experience!
↑ La Louvre
Just a short walk from our sweet spot on the Rue de Martyrs, we found ourselves strolling down narrow, cobblestone streets, closer and closer into the heart of Paris. Many could agree, that heart would be La Louvre. It may have been said that August is not the best time to travel in Paris because of the heat, but as my first time, I thought it was perfect! Balmy temperatures give way to fewer tourists, so our trip to the Louvre met with few lines, and poignant moments of connection to art and artists of time long gone. The Louvre allowed us to step right back into a time of luxurious maximalism, my favorite! As the saying goes, to each his own, and the Louvre has something for everyone, but my niece and I found ourselves enchanted by the Versailles inspired rooms. When in doubt, more gilt!
↑ Croissants and Coffee
There certainly are no shortages of exceptional cafes, croissants, and coffee on the streets of Paris. Just open up your front door, turn left, or right, go straight, or backward, and you’ll stumble upon any number of establishments offering up Paris’s quintessential staples. We started most days with a warm croissant du chocolat, a piping hot espresso, and a cup of fresh squeezed OJ, while we feasted our eyes upon regal churches, old-world architecture, and passersby. Then off on another day’s adventures we went.
↑ Rotisserie D’argent
Another amazing family meal shared together was at one of Paris’s most reputable restaurants, Rotisserie D’Argent. My brother had to pull some strings to get us a reservation here, so plan ahead if you’d like to take part in this fine dining experience. We had some time to wait before our reservation and so we decided to take a leisurely walk through the neighborhood, which became an experience in itself. The restaurant was just over the bridge from Ile Saint Louis. The walk was as memorable as the upcoming meal. We set out for a quick walk while we waited, and stumbled upon a neighborhood rich with art, and a hip scene. Small shops and funky cafes were all around us. Just one more unique experience to add to the growing list.
Once our reservation was ready, we settled into a big table located right in the center of the restaurant, which gave us great views of the bustling ambiance. The staff was perfection, and so was the food. No corners cut here as far as service, flavor, and style go.
We indulged in every classic French dish you can think of, starting with escargot, followed by foie gras, then on to a mixed green salad, and ending with duck in two parts – duck breast, and duck confit. We closed out the meal with, what else? Creme brulee!
↑ Palace of Versailles
Note to travelers, if you’re not a morning person, get your shit together – at least for one day, so that you can experience all that Versailles has to offer. I made the mistake of lollygagging, resulting in not being able to spend the necessary time needed to thoroughly bask in this palatial experience.
Just about a 20-minute train ride outside of Paris, and you’re welcomed into a city in itself in Versailles. Feel as though you’ve stepped back into the overly opulent and extravagant world of Louis the XIV as you explore the expansive gardens, secret hideouts, grand palaces, lavish fountains, and Marie Antoinette’s private lover’s lounge.
↑ Montmartre and Sacre Coeur
Once again, Rue des Martyrs put us at a great vantage point for a pleasant, but uphill walk to the Montmartre district of Paris. The narrow, cobblestone streets leave no sense untouched. Shops, restaurants, cafes, and boutiques as far as the eye could see dotted the landscape as we made our way to Sacre Coeur.
We decided to stop and have lunch on the way and were treated like family at Le Relais Gascon. The owner was very generous and after lunch, gave us a walking tour through the neighborhood, waving to each shop owner that knew him by name as we went. He even gave us a suggestion on where to go dancing that night, which lead to the funniest story of the trip! The place he told us to go to is called O’Sullivan’s, but in his very thick French accent, sounded like “house 11,” We kept trying to translate, asking, “Maison onze??” “Noo, noo, nooo,” was his reply each time. It was only after he asked one of the waitresses to write it down for us did we realize what he was saying, and in unison, we all shouted, “Ooohhh, O’Sullivan’s!!” Ha…what a funny moment!
On our way up to the magnificence of Sacre Coeur, more and more tourists seem to flood the streets. The neighborhood was a bit touristy with lots of souvenir and crepe shops, but if not for this, we wouldn’t have gotten our hands on the cutest berets – my niece’s in a soft fuzzy pink, and mine, a traditional black. We smacked those suckers on our heads, and made the final ascent to Sacre Coeur.
Here, the grand steps leading up to the church were teaming with people, and not just tourists. Locals and visitors alike enjoyed the breathtaking views below of the city of Paris. What a treat!
Once inside, I was overcome with a feeling of inner peace and joy. My prayers flowed easily in the presence of this artistic religious masterpiece. The detail in every square centimeter of Sacre Coeur is unprecedented and cannot be missed when in Paris.